"2533","13","archive","2047",,,"disk0/00/00/25/33","2021-12-10 22:02:47","2023-10-31 10:44:08","2021-12-10 22:02:47","article",,,"show","","",,,,"Geminiani","Ludovico","","",,"",,,,,"","","Unveiling the complexity of Japanese metallic threads","pub","A03","","japanese armor",,"In the framework of an extensive survey campaign on a collection of Japanese samurai armors, metallic threads from different parts of the traditional equipment were studied by several analytical techniques. The collection of armors belongs to Museo delle Culture (Lugano, Switzerland) and it is composed of ten elements, which date back from the 15th to 20th century. Metallic threads under study come from six of ten elements of the collection and represent a complex and unique multimaterial, which shows specific characteristics in Japanese tradition (kinran). The multianalytical approach based on ATR-FTIR spectroscopy and SEM-EDX analysis, together with a careful observa- tion with optical and digital microscopy, permitted to obtain a complete characterization of materials, which have shown a great variability in metal foils and in organic adhesives (urushi, animal glue, starch). Gold and silver turned out to be not so largely used as scholars thought, while aluminum showed a great diffusion. Within the collection of analyzed armors, the obtained results allowed us for the first time to get a complete comprehension of materials and techniques used by Japanese craftsmen, and to observe differences in the quality of the materials and in manufacture technology over the centuries.","2021-10-28",,"MDPI",,"https://www.mdpi.com/journal/heritage",,,,,"",,,,,"",,,,,"",,,,,"","",,"","","","","",,,,,"en",,,,,"public",,,,"Haeritage","4",,,,"4017-4039",,,,,,,,,,,"TRUE",,"2571-9408",,,,,,,"","","","1. Járó, M. Gold embroidery and fabrics in europe: XI–XIV centuries. Gold Bull. 1990, 23, 40–57. [CrossRef]
2. Karatzani, A. Metal threads: The historical development. In Proceedings of the Traditional Textile Craft: An Intangible Cultural Heritage? Ebert, C., Frisch, S., Harlow, M., Strand, E.A., Bjerregaard, L., Eds.; University of Copenhagen: Copenhagen, Denmark,
2014; pp. 163–174.
3. Csiszár, G.; Ungár, T.; Járó, M. Correlation between the sub-structure parameters and the manufacturing technologies of metal
threads in historical textiles using X-ray line profile analysis. Appl. Phys. A Mater. Sci. Process. 2013, 111, 897–906. [CrossRef]
4. Martínez, B.; Piquero-Cilla, J.; Montoya, N.; Doménech-Carbó, M.T.; Doménech-Carbó, A. Electrochemical analysis of gold
embroidery threads from archeological textiles. J. Solid State Electrochem. 2018, 22, 2205–2215. [CrossRef]
5. Abdel-Kareem, O.; Harith, M.A. Evaluating the use of laser radiation in cleaning of copper embroidery threads on archaeological
Egyptian textiles. Appl. Surf. Sci. 2008, 254, 5854–5860. [CrossRef]
6. Hacke, A.M.; Carr, C.M.; Brown, A.; Howell, D. Investigation into the nature of metal threads in a Renaissance tapestry and the
cleaning of tarnished silver by UV/Ozone (UVO) treatment. J. Mater. Sci. 2003, 38, 3307–3314. [CrossRef]
7. Weiszburg, T.G.; Gherdán, K.; Ratter, K.; Zajzon, N.; Bendo, Z.; Radnóczi, G.; Takács, Á.; Váczi, T.; Varga, G.; Szakmány, G. Medieval Gilding Technology of Historical Metal Threads Revealed by Electron Optical and Micro-Raman Spectroscopic Study of Focused Ion Beam-Milled Cross Sections. Anal. Chem. 2017, 89, 10753–10760. [CrossRef] [PubMed]
8. Ferreira, T.; Moreiras, H.; Manhita, A.; Tomaz, P.; Mirão, J.; Dias, C.B.; Caldeira, A.T. The Liturgical Cope of D. Teotónio of
Braganza: Material Characterization of a 16th Century Pluviale. Microsc. Microanal. 2015, 21, 2–14. [CrossRef] [PubMed]
9. Karatzani, A. Study and analytical investigation of metal threads from Byzantine/Greek ecclesiastical textiles. X-ray Spectrom.
2008, 37, 410–417. [CrossRef]
10. Šimic ́, K.; Zamboni, I.; Fazinic ́, S.; Mudronja, D.; Sovic ́, L.; Gouasmia, S.; Soljacˇic ́, I. Comparative analysis of textile metal threads
from liturgical vestments and folk costumes in Croatia. Nucl. Instrum. Methods Phys. Res. Sect. B Beam Interact. Mater. Atoms 2018,
417, 115–120. [CrossRef]
11. Duran, A.; Perez-Maqueda, R.; Perez-Rodriguez, J.L. Degradation processes of historic metal threads used in some Spanish and
Portuguese ornamentation pieces. J. Cult. Herit. 2019, 36, 135–142. [CrossRef]
12. Oraltay, R.G.; Karadag, R. Surface Investigation of Metal Threads and Solid Metals of Ottoman Textiles in the Topkapi Palace
Museum. Stud. Conserv. 2020, 65, 59–64. [CrossRef]
13. Muros, V.; Wärmländer, S.K.T.S.; Scott, D.A.; Theile, J.M. Characterization of 17th-19th century metal threads from the colonial
andes. J. Am. Inst. Conserv. 2007, 46, 229–244. [CrossRef]
14. Járó, M.; Gál, T.; Tóth, A. The Characterization and Deterioration of Modern Metallic Threads. Stud. Conserv. 2000, 45, 95–105.
[CrossRef]
15. Gunsalus, H.C. An Exhibition of Japanese Textiles; The Art Institute of Chicago: Chicago, IL, USA, 1934; Volume 28.
16. Moriyama, A. Japanese Textile Culture The Example of Junichi Arai and Five Other Creators. In A Companion to Textile Culture;
Harris, J., Ed.; John Wiley & Sons: Hoboken, NJ, USA, 2020; pp. 353–370.
17. Priest, A.; Simmons, P. Chinese Textiles: An Introduction to Their History, Sources, Techniques, Symbolism, and Use; The Metropolitan
Museum of Art: New York, NY, USA, 1934.
18. Nomura, S. Ancient Chinese and Japanese Nishiki and Kinran Brocades; N. Sawyer & Son: Boston, MA, USA, 1914.
19. Neighbourgh Parent, M.; Japanese Architecture and Art Net Users System (JAANUS). Kinran. Available online: http://www.aisf.
or.jp/~{}jaanus/ (accessed on 9 July 2021).
20. Scidmore, E.R. Japanese textiles: Brocades and crapes. Harpers Bazar 1897, 30, 703.
21. Parry-Williams, T. Made-by-hand: [Re]valuing traditional (Japanese) textile practices for contemporary design. Craft Res. 2015, 6,
165–186. [CrossRef]
22. Robinson, H.R. Oriental Armour; Walker & Co.: New York, NY, USA, 1967.
23. Sakakibara, K. The Manufacture of Armour and Helmets in Sixteenth Century Japan (Cho-Kokatchu- Seisakuben); Robinson, H.R., Ed.;
Charles E. Tuttle Company Inc.: Rutland, VT, USA; Tokyo, Japan, 1964.
24. Perez-Rodriguez, J.L.; Perez-Maqueda, R.; Franquelo, M.L.; Duran, A. Study of the thermal decomposition of historical metal
threads. J. Therm. Anal. Calorim. 2018, 134, 15–22. [CrossRef]
25. Popowich, A.K.; Cleland, T.P.; Solazzo, C. Characterization of membrane metal threads by proteomics and analysis of a 14th c.
thread from an Italian textile. J. Cult. Herit. 2018, 33, 10–17. [CrossRef]
26. Nord, A.G.; Tronner, K. A Note on the Analysis of Gilded Metal Embroidery Threads. Stud. Conserv. 2000, 45, 274–279.
27. Perez-Rodriguez, J.L.; Albardonedo, A.; Robador, M.D.; Duran, A. Spanish and Portuguese gilding threads: Characterization
using microscopic techniques. Microsc. Microanal. 2018, 24, 574–590. [CrossRef]
28. Bergstrand, M.; Hedhammar, E. European Metal Threads in Swedish Churches 1600-1751. Stud. Conserv. 2006, 51, 11–28. [CrossRef]
29. Hacke, A.-M.; Carr, C.M.; Brown, A. Characterisation of metal threads in Renaissance tapestries. In Proceedings of the Interna-
tional Conference on Metals Conservation, Canberra, Australia, 4–8 October 2004; pp. 71–78.
30. Karatzani, A.; Rehren, T. The use of metal threads and decorations in Byzantine-Greek Orthodox ecclesiastical textiles. JOM 2006,
58, 34–37. [CrossRef]
31. Kohara, N.; Sasa, Y.; Sakurai, K.; Uda, M. A Note on the Characterization of Metal Threads in Historic Textiles Handed down by
the Ainu People. Stud. Conserv. 1998, 43, 109–113.
32. Costa, V.; de Reyer, D.; Betbeder, M. A note on the analysis of metal threads. Stud. Conserv. 2012, 57, 112–115. [CrossRef]
33. Rezic ́,I.;C ́urkovic ́,L.;Ujevic ́,M.Simplemethodsforcharacterizationofmetalsinhistoricaltextilethreads.Talanta2010,82,
237–244. [CrossRef]
34. Cybulska, M.; Jedraszek-Bomba, A.; Kuberski, S.; Wrzosek, H. Methods of chemical and physicochemical analysis in the
identification of archaeological and historical textiles. Fibres Text. East. Eur. 2008, 16, 67–73.
35. Joosten, I.; Van Bommel, M.R.; Keijzer, R.H.D.; Reschreiter, H. Micro analysis on hallstatt textiles: Colour and condition. Microchim. Acta
2006, 155, 169–174. [CrossRef]
36. Ok, S.Y.; Seon, Y.L. Study on the Form and Character of Gold Thread in Weave with Supplementary Gold Wefts Embroidery.
J. Korean Soc. Costume 2013, 63, 79–93.
37. Kim, J.E.; Yu, A.J.; Han, Y.B.; Chung, Y.J. Study of Characteristics for Red Adhesive in Traditional Gold Thread. J. Korean Conserv. Sci.
2016, 32, 43–49. [CrossRef]
38. Luraschi, M. Il Samurai. Da Guerriero a Icona; Silvana Editoriale: Milano, Italy, 2018.
39. Schindelin, J.; Arganda-Carreras, I.; Frise, E.; Kaynig, V.; Longair, M.; Pietzsch, T.; Preibisch, S.; Rueden, C.; Saalfeld, S.; Schmid, B.; et al.
Fiji: An open-source platform for biological-image analysis. Nat. Methods 2012, 9, 676–682. [CrossRef] [PubMed]
40. Menges, F. Spectragryph—Optical Spectroscopy Software, Version 1.2.15 2021. Available online: https://www.effemm2.de/
spectragryph/ (accessed on 9 July 2021).
41. Maréchal, Y.; Chanzy, H. The hydrogen bond network in I(β) cellulose as observed by infrared spectrometry. J. Mol. Struct. 2000,
523, 183–196. [CrossRef]
42. Quaglierini, C. Chimica Delle Fibre Tessili; Zanichelli: Bologna, Italy, 1989.
43. Ranalli, G.; Bosch-Roig, P.; Crudele, S.; Rampazzi, L.; Corti, C.; Zanardini, E. Dry biocleaning of artwork: An innovative
methodology for Cultural Heritage recovery? Microb. Cell 2021, 8, 91–105. [CrossRef]
44. Sasaki, S. Materials and Techniques. In The Hotei Encyclopedia of Japanese Woodblock Prints; Hotei Publishing: Amsterdam, The Netherlands,
2005; pp. 325–347.
45. Quattrini, M.V.; Ioele, M.; Sodo, A.; Priori, G.F.; Radeglia, D. A seventeenth century Japanese painting: Scientific identification of
materials and techniques. Stud. Conserv. 2014, 59, 328–340. [CrossRef]
46. Chukanov, N.V. Infrared Spectra of Mineral Species—Extended Library; Springer Science+Business Media: Dordrecht, The Netherlands,
2014; Volume 1, ISBN 9789400771277.
47. Bugini, R.; Corti, C.; Folli, L.; Rampazzi, L. Unveiling the Use of Creta in Roman Plasters: Analysis of Clay Wall Paintings From
Brixia (Italy). Archaeometry 2017, 59, 84–95. [CrossRef]
48. Sansonetti, A.; Andreotti, A.; Bertasa, M.; Bonaduce, I.; Corti, C.; Facchin, L.; La Nasa, J.; Spiriti, A.; Rampazzi, L. Territory and
related artworks: Stuccoworks from the lombard lakes. J. Cult. Herit. 2020, 46, 382–398. [CrossRef]
49. Xia, J.; Lin, J.; Xu, Y.; Chen, Q. On the UV-induced polymeric behavior of chinese lacquer. ACS Appl. Mater. Interfaces 2011, 3,
482–489. [CrossRef] [PubMed]
50. Bugini, R.; Corti, C.; Folli, L.; Rampazzi, L. Roman Wall Paintings: Characterisation of Plaster Coats Made of Clay Mud. Heritage
2021, 4, 48. [CrossRef]
51. Burmester, A. The scientific investigation of two Japanese dance masks. In Proceedings of the 17th International Symposium on
the Conservation and Restoration of Cultural Property: Conservation of Urushi Objects, Tokyo, Japan, 10–12 November 1993;
pp. 127–146.
52. Salvemini, F.; Grazzi, F.; Agostino, A.; Iannaccone, R.; Civita, F.; Hartmann, S.; Lehmann, E.; Zoppi, M. Non-invasive character-
ization through X-ray fluorescence and neutron radiography of an ancient Japanese lacquer. Archaeol. Anthropol. Sci. 2013, 5,
197–204. [CrossRef]
53. Giumlia-Mair, A.; Meriani, S.; Lucchini, E. Indagini archeometallurgiche su dorature antiche: Analisi, tecniche e varianti. In
Proceedings of the I Bronzi Antichi: Produzione e Tecnologia, Grado-Aquileia, Italy, 22–26 May 2001; pp. 338–343.
54. Nord, A.G.; Tronner, K.; Thorén, C. Discolouration of Gold Decorations. Stud. Conserv. 2018, 63, 189–193. [CrossRef]
55. Derrick, M.; Stulik, D.; Laundry, J. Infrared Spectroscopy in Conservation Science; The Getty Conservation Institute: Los Angeles, CA,
USA, 1999; ISBN 9781119130536.
56. Rampazzi, L.; Brunello, V.; Campione, F.P.; Corti, C.; Geminiani, L.; Recchia, S.; Luraschi, M. Non-invasive identification of
pigments in Japanese coloured photographs. Microchem. J. 2020, 157, 36–42. [CrossRef]
57. Caley, E.R. Orichalcum and Related Ancient Alloys; American Numismatic Society: New York, NY, USA, 1964.
58. Tolkien, T.; Wilkinson, H. A Collector’s Guide to Costume Jewelry Key Styles and How to Recognize Them; Firefly Books: Willowdale,
ON, Canada, 1997.
59. Moffat, T.P.; Stafford, G.R.; Hall, D.E. Pitting Corrosion of Electrodeposited Aluminum-Manganese Alloys. J. Electrochem. Soc.
1993, 140, 2779–2786. [CrossRef]
60. Sisko, M.; Pfaffli, I. Fiber Atlas-Identification of Papermaking Fibers; Springer: Espoo, Finland, 1995.
61. Carrillo, F.; Colom, X.; Suñol, J.J.; Saurina, J. Structural FTIR analysis and thermal characterisation of lyocell and viscose-type
fibres. Eur. Polym. J. 2004, 40, 2229–2234. [CrossRef]
62. Gorassini, A.; Adami, G.; Calvini, P.; Giacomello, A. ATR-FTIR characterization of old pressure sensitive adhesive tapes in historic
papers. J. Cult. Herit. 2016, 21, 775–785. [CrossRef]
 63. Hiroyuki, I. An Outline of Japanese Gold and Silver Production. Wat on Earth. University od Waterloo. 22 August 2002. Available online: https://uwaterloo.ca/wat-on-earth/news/outline-japanese-gold-and-silver-production (accessed on 15 July 2021).
64. Kobata, A. The Production and Uses of Gold and Silver in Sixteenth-and Seventeenth-Century Japan. Econ. Hist. Rev. 1965, 18, 245–266. [CrossRef]
65. Giumlia-Mair, A. Tin rich layers on ancient copper based objects. Surf. Eng. 2005, 21, 359–367. [CrossRef]","","",,,,,,,"",,,,
"2533",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,"Campione","Paolo Francesco","","",,,,,,,,,,,"F09",,"metallic threads",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
"2533",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,"Corti","Cristina","","",,,,,,,,,,,"F28",,"urushi",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
"2533",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,"Motella","Sila","","",,,,,,,,,,,"F34",,"kinran",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
"2533",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,"Rampazzi","Laura","","","laura.rampazzi@uninsubria.it",,,,,,,,,,,,"ATR-FTIR",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
"2533",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,"Recchia","Sandro","","",,,,,,,,,,,,,"SEM-EDX",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
"2533",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,"Luraschi","Moira","","",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
